A surfer should practice submission when caught in a large wave rather than resisting the force.

“I think submission first be you know submission first yeah let it let it let it take you let it do what it wants with you and then when it lets up then you make your move”

Surfing is an addictive and spiritual pursuit that functions as a meditative escape from the stresses of daily life.

“surfing is a very spiritual thing whether people I don't know if everyone like connects with that aspect of it but I think think for the most part that's what people are kind of chasing like a feeling that you only maybe get the first time or if you up the ante”

He views learning to surf as an aspirational, highly desirable, and cool life experience.

“I look up to the fact that you guys live this the life you live that you do go out to Malibu go surfing that you're healthy like you guys look like you're having so much fun so much that I set a goal for myself I'm not even joking for real I swear to God based on US based on YouTube”

He defines surfing as an ideal activity that combines nature, meditation, exercise, and social connection.

“it is the ultimate excess it's like it's everything it's communing with nature it's meditation it's exercise it's hanging out with your friends it's traveling and hanging and and camping and it's like being cool and having fun in the day”

Surfing is a great way to meet all kinds of people because it is a great equalizer where everyone shares a zen state.

“I find like it's the great equalizer. No I don't think anybody gives a what anybody else does. >> Right. >> When you're in a lineup like they really just don't care. They're you've you've already bonded if you're there you're sort of bonded in a thing that it's like jazz.”